In Bogotá, when the sun begins to set and the cold creeps into the streets, there is a custom that feels like a hug: having afternoon tea. As I am always on the lookout for good places to eat, I found an attractive place to enjoy afternoon tea.
Hace mucho no me regalaba una tarde de merienda en un salón de onces, y esta vez decidí vivirlo como si fuera la primera: con calma, con sabor y con mucha curiosidad cultural y sobre todo bien acompañando.
Estaba pasando por la cuadra de mi barrio y conseguí un nuevo local, llamado “Dulce Tertulia”. Me llamó la atención y días después fui con mi chica a ver de qué se trataba.
It had been a long time since I had treated myself to an afternoon snack in a tea room, and this time I decided to experience it as if it were my first time: calmly, savoring the flavors, with a lot of cultural curiosity, and above all, in good company.I was walking down the block in my neighborhood and found a new place called “Dulce Tertulia.” It caught my attention, and a few days later I went with my girlfriend to see what it was all about.
As soon as we arrived at the salon, we noticed the smell of ground coffee, the dimly lit space, and the closely spaced tables. There were about six tables, two large ones and four small ones for couples. What caught our attention was the centerpiece: a small jar of roasted coffee beans that you could touch.
Al sentarnos, nos llevaron el menú, corto y preciso en lo que vendían, con los precios a mi parecer más elevados que en el promedio en comparación a otros salones de onces.
When we sat down, they brought us the menu, which was short and precise in what they sold, with prices that I thought were higher than average compared to other tea rooms.
Pero... ***¿De dónde es el origen de decir “vamos por unos onces”?*** Investigando conseguir que los franciscanos de La Candelaria, en Bogotá, idearon la costumbre de las onces como una manera de combatir el frío de la tarde. Un sacerdote trajo aguardiente desde Manizales y, para ocultarlo, lo pedía con una clave de "once", ya que la palabra "aguardiente" está formada por once letras. Con el paso del tiempo, la costumbre se trasladó de los hombres a las mujeres, que la adecuaron para compartir té y diálogo con sus vecinas. En Colombia, las onces aún están presentes en la actualidad, aunque con diferencias dependiendo de la región y de los alimentos propios de cada zona, esto según el portal [Wradio](https://www.wradio.com.co/2023/07/21/de-donde-viene-el-termino-tomar-onces-y-en-que-paises-se-usa/).
But... ***where does the expression “let's go for some onces”*** come from? After some research, I found out that the Franciscans of La Candelaria, in Bogotá, came up with the custom of onces as a way to combat the cold of the afternoon. A priest brought aguardiente from Manizales and, to hide it, asked for it using the code word “once,” since the word “aguardiente” has eleven letters. Over time, the custom spread from men to women, who adapted it to share tea and conversation with their neighbors. In Colombia, onces are still practiced today, although with differences depending on the region and the foods typical of each area, according to the [Wradio](https://www.wradio.com.co/2023/07/21/de-donde-viene-el-termino-tomar-onces-y-en-que-paises-se-usa/) website.
What I find strange is that some Colombians I asked about the origin of this saying did not know, they just enjoyed the moment and that was it.
I was reading the menu and noticed that they serve coffee in a different way, so I asked about the filtering method. The waitress recommended that if I was going to drink it that way, it would be better to have a variety of red Arabica coffee with sweet tones, so I followed her suggestion and ordered it.
I also ordered two croissants for lunch or afternoon tea, one with beef stroganoff and the other with chicken, mushrooms, and root vegetables. Before that, a delicious chai tea with almond milk arrived, which my beloved had ordered, but my coffee would take longer because it would include a great experience.
After that excellent coffee grinding with the strength of my arms (which were exhausted), the experience had to continue. The waitress poured the ground coffee through a filter, which she then placed in an hourglass-shaped jar, and added water at 90 degrees Celsius. After pouring all the water, she served it to me in a glass similar to a wine glass, but it was not for wine but for drinking coffee. It had an intense flavor of red fruits, little acidity, no bitterness, and an aromatic sweetness. That is what I can say about that cup of coffee.
Ya para culminar nos pedimos un postre, también un croissant pero relleno de crema pastelera con fresas mientras degustaba de mi elegante café con una copa, para adicionar una rica almojábana.
En relación al precio, como mencione al principio fue algo elevado si lo comparamos con otras panaderías o salones de onces, gastamos un aproximado de 35 dólares.
To finish off, we ordered dessert, also a croissant but filled with pastry cream and strawberries, while I enjoyed my elegant coffee with a glass, adding a delicious almojábana.In terms of price, as I mentioned at the beginning, it was a little high compared to other bakeries or tea rooms; we spent approximately $35.
Y ahora te lo pregunto a ti…
¿En tu ciudad también hay una costumbre similar a las onces?¿Cuál es el alimento que no debe faltar en tu mesa de merienda?
Me gustaría mucho leerte en los comentarios
What this experience taught me: Having meriendas is not just “eating something in the afternoon”; it is connecting with memories, with family or partners, and with oneself. I understood that with every sip of coffee and every bite of bread, there is a story that is repeated at many Colombian tables and that keeps the culture alive.And now I ask you...
Is there a custom similar to onces in your city? What food is a must on your snack table?
I would love to read your comments.
Thank you for joining me on this afternoon of onces. If you enjoyed this journey through flavors and aromas, support me with your vote and share your experience in the comments.Every interaction allows me to continue bringing more cultural and gastronomic stories to this community.
Todas las fotografías son mi total autoría-texto traducidos en deepl.com // All photographs are entirely my own work—text translated using deepl.com.
